Supermarkets are irresponsible in their attitude towards food. The 'Pile it High, Sell it Cheap' philosophy was the worst publicity campaign ever, and we are all the losers. Only the supermarkets gain from such a ridiculous approach.

People buy expensive clothes, cars, take holidays in exotic places, lavish good money on TV sets and equipment, yet are content to pour rubbish down their throats. It's madness.

Today research announces that at least one third of chickens sold as food are infected with bacteria that are resistant to antibiotics. How long before we become resistant as a result? I have an inane theory that the sperm count of our young males has drastically reduced because they drink water that contains oestrogen, mostly coming from the contraceptive pill, but also from much of the food we eat.

Buy decent food. There's a temptation to buy everything from a supermarket but you do yourself no favours. I'd like you to try a few experiments, mainly by visiting local sources of supply and cooking the food yourself rather than buying a cardboard box whose contents you throw in a microwave while you sink into the sofa to watch your favourite soap. It may seem as if it costs more, but that is unlikely, and you will feel so much better.

Start with a buying spree. Go to Jacks, the greengocers in Hamilton Road, or to the Sunday market, and buy all the fruit and vegetables you can carry. It's unlikely you'll spend much more than a tenner, perhaps £20 if you are really extravagant. Buy anything that looks attractive, but include onions, garlic and Jack sells farm-fresh eggs as well.

Then cycle down to Michael, the butcher, in High Road East. I say cycle because Felixstowe is not that big a place, and even though it has a few hills a bike remains the cheapest and fittest way of getting around. Our two local cycle shops will set you up, and ask for panniers and baskets as well, for you'll be surprised how much you can carry on a bike.

Michael is one of three butchers in the town. I recommend him because I know him, the others may be just as good. Today we want a chicken, a good-sized bird will cost about £5, perhaps a little more or less.

Take it back home, place in a baking tray, sprinkle a little salt over the skin, stuff a lemon up its rear end - and you may want to cut out the two lumps of fat that you should find just at the edges of the cut rear end, either side of the parson's nose.

Cut up an onion, it really doesn't matter how you do that, but I slice away the root end, cut a thin slice from top to bottom, along the rounded side, so that it will sit on that cut edge, making it easier to slice. Then I practice being a TV chef by slicing as quickly as I can. The trick is to hold the onion firmly with one hand, using that hand as a guide for the knife - which should be big and heavy. Slice down, rocking the knife across the cut, remembering to move your guide hand back away from the knife as you slice, or you'll get too much blood on the onion. Then roughly cut up the slices to make hundreds of small pieces.

Sprinkle the cut onion around the chicken. There's no need to tie its legs down, but do make sure that you look inside, however distatesful you find that, to check for plastic bags with gizzards etc. Remove these, and all other wrappings and strings before cooking.

Drizzle a little oil over the bird and the onions. Any good quality vegetable oil will do. Put the bird into a warm oven, about gas mark 6 - no idea what that is in new money, but probably about 180C. I'd recommend you add a handful of garlic cloves, no need to peel them, because roasted garlic is divine.

Wash some potatoes. I never peel spuds at this time of year, the real goodness is just under the skin, so why throw it away? I'll often steam some other vegetables on top of the potatoes.

The chicken will take around an hour to cook. Take it out of the oven to check, when it looks brown. Stick a knife down into the space between the leg and breast and watch carefully as the juices escape. They should run clear, keep cooking if there is any trace of blood.

A few minutes before you think the chicken is approaching perfection start cooking the potatoes. Plenty of boiling water, perhaps a little salt - although I rarely use salt in cooking, unlike so many TV chefs who seem to ladle the stuff all over each portion of food. Reduce the salt intake, it will allow the true taste of the food to emerge.

I use a simple steamer, it's just a saucepan to which I can add two more layers that have holes in the bottom to allow steam to pass through. Cook the potatoes in the water in the saucepan, add other vegetables to the steamer trays. Carrots take longer than cabbage, and spinach takes seconds. Get involved with the joy of cooking, prod, poke, look and taste as you go along. That's the way you learn when food is ready.

Once the chicken is cooked, take it out of the oven, remove from the baking pan, and let it stand on a warmed plate or carving board, in a warm place. This will relax the meat, which has contracted during cooking.

Put plates into the oven to warm. It is essential that all hot food be served on hot plates.

Add some of the vegetable water to the juices in the baking pan, which is now on the top of the stove, sitting on a low heat, while you stir enthusiastically while sipping a glass of chilled white wine or a gin and tonic. I prefer not to add flour to this sauce, but just to rely upon the juices from the chicken, the lemon, the onions and garlic and adding a little water from the cooking vegetable to make up the quantity needed.

Once the sauce is made, cut up the chicken. If you really don't know how to do that go to the library and look in any good cookbook. Place on a seving dish, pour over the sauce, add the vegetables, or put in a separate dish and serve.

Don't throw any part of that chicken away. The best bits are yet to come.